December 22, 2009

Today I went over to visit a family who owns a lavash bakery. Lavash is very similar to tortillas and is the national bread of Armenia. I know the daughter of this family who participants in some English language clubs run by Peace Corps volunteers. So the following are some pictures taken today of their bakery.

(This woman is mixing the lavash.)










(Here she is weighing the rounds for size.)








(Woman rolling out the lavash.)










(The baker who places the dough on the pillow next to him and then slams it against the oven wall.)










(In the center, the lavash bakes against the oven wall.)











(Another view of the bakery.)









The huge shuka (market) has dozens of animal heads for sale. You have your choice of cow, goat, pig, sheep, etc. I’ve been wondering who buy these things. The lavash bakery owner is who. He was in the kitchen vigorously sharpening his knife, as we made cookies, and when I asked why he was working so hard, his daughter said that he was getting ready to prepare his cow’s head. According to his daughter, men love these heads. He hadn’t decided how he was going to cook it. He could quarter it (with an ax?) or bring it to a place that would bake it since Armenians do not have ovens large enough to bake their own heads!

(Far right, cow head on rack over bathtub.)







(Ecstatic "head" owner.)










(Daughter in family kitchen.)









December 20, 2009

It’s only five days to Christmas, and there is very little sign in Gyumri that anything is happening. The shops are a little busier as people prepare for Nor Tare (New Year’s). Christmas here is celebrated on January 6th, the original Christian holiday. Somewhere along the line, the Pope moved the holiday back onto a pagan holiday (the 25th) that he was displeased with. While this country is very proud of its Christian heritage, there is very little participation in church services. Some people attribute this lack of participation to the Russian occupation and the suppression of religion, but the Russians left in 1992.

Nor Tare is a huge event that lasts six days. It is one huge long open house event. I have been invited to several people’s homes. Vast amounts of food are prepared to offer visiting guests. Families often go into debt to prepare for it. (According to volunteers who participated last year, you want to go to everyone’s house early, in the first day or two while the food is fresh, because by the sixth day of sitting out on the table, the food can get pretty dangerous!) So the big shuka (outdoor market) is crowded with foods not usually seen, like oranges, bananas, pineapples ($20), large fish (mostly pond trout), and meat that is easily identifiable as the head, legs, or other parts are still attached. (I’m expecting a full goat, sheep, or cow to be delivered to our house!)

For Christmas Day (a normal workday here), I’m headed to Kapan, which is nearly at the other end of the country, near Iran. (You can see this on my little map.) This involves a two hour van ride to Yerevan, and then a van/taxi ride to Kapan which is six to eight hours away depending on the weather, the roads, and the vehicle we end up in. One of our volunteers, Sue, offered to host Christmas for a small number of people, which has grown to about 25. So we all have to bring something (lemon bars) and we’ll have a chicken feast! And a white elephant gift exchange.

It’s been cold here; right now it is 31 degrees, which is relatively warm. There is snow on the ground. When it is actually snowing, it tends to be warmer. But I walk several miles a day, and walking in snow is a lot of work as I’m tensed up worrying about slipping on the underlying ice. Our water pipes froze so I went four days without bathing. Water is so hit or miss here.

My Christmas treat to myself was to have been a modem for my computer. At my office the Internet is not reliable, so I have a choice of free Internet at the American Corner, a USAID library, where there are two computers and a line-up to use them, and then we are limited to thirty minutes, or I can go to a dark smoky Internet cafĂ© where I am usually the only female, and peek over men’s shoulders as they look at porn, or play games. Around November 12th, I first started to try and buy a modem. But the stores were out of them and told me to come back in three days, then seven days, then ten days, ten days, ten days, etc. Unfortunately there is little competition in this market so I could not go to several stores. Customer service is absolutely unheard of in this country. I received a call from VivaCell on Friday that I could buy a modem on Saturday. When I went to the store, they told me to come back on Monday. So maybe tomorrow …. Several people have speculated that the real problem is probably that the modems are held up in customs, the second most notoriously corrupt department of government here, after the tax department. Everyone complains about the bribes you have to pay to move anything through customs. (One of our volunteers and her fellow bus passengers, just got held up for five hours by Armenian customs at the Georgian border just north of here as she was returning from Turkey. They went through everyone’s belongings to see what they had purchased in Turkey that they could assess.) A modem here costs $53, which is more than half of what most people make in a month. Then you prepay for use by the megabyte.

I have been unsuccessfully looking for an apartment or small house within the Peace Corps living allowance. I will find something. This is not a market-based economy. When the Soviets were in control, people could not own real property. After the Soviets left, people were issued vouchers for the property they were living in. My host family, which lives close into central Gyumri, has a large home (mostly unused and run-down) and a large piece of property across the street where there is a decrepit house and fruit-bearing trees. Before leaving for Russia, other family members lived on the property. In the US, this family could not hold onto this property because of real-estate taxes, and because there would be a significant sale value for a piece of vacant property in the city center. But property seldom changes hands in Gyumri, and it is nearly impossible to attach a “value” to property. Many people who own property here (acquired with vouchers at the time the Soviets left), have just abandoned it and now live in Russia. So there are a lot of vacant apartments and homes. The problem is finding the owners or some way to rent the better properties. Property that is for sale is outrageously expensive. There is one large home for sale near here that is $80,000, or 33 times the average yearly wage. And mortgage loans are not available. People here do not like to rent to foreigners, will not rent out apartments that are “for sale” until they sell, and they will not fix up an apartment so that it looks “nice” to a potential buyer or renter. So almost all places that volunteers move into require some fixing, cleanup, etc. (The Peace Corps gives us money towards this expense.) I have two requirements for a place to live; heat and warm water. Unbelievably, many places have no heat, and most places do not have warm water.

One of our 70-year-old volunteer’s is moving into a very small one-room apartment on the fifth floor (no elevator!) that does not have heat. She will use Peace Corps’ supplied electric heaters, which are very expensive to operate. But to me the worst problem is that the electricity regularly goes out here. Gas is more reliable. So after looking at several places, and smelling the mold, seeing the water running down walls, looking at the crap that needs to be hauled out, etc., I’m holding out for a “livable” place.

I just returned from a walk about Gyumri and saw a sign of Christmas. The city is erecting a Christmas tree in the main plaza. The “branches” going on the tree are real. When this “tree” is finished, I will attach the “finished” picture.
(Christmas tree being assembled in Gyumri center.)

At his time of year, it is painful not to be around family and friends, and especially my two daughters. Please know that I am thinking of you and wish a very warm Merry Christmas and Happy New Year’s to all of you!
(Laundry, stiff as a board, "drying" in the snow. After the sun came out, Emma brought it in!)






(Picture of mountains to the southwest in
Turkey from the end of my street.)
December 8, 2009

I’ve had several friends wonder what kinds of “old gals” join the Peace Corps. This post is in response to that query.

I asked each of these women, laughingly, how old they were so that I would get it right. What is funny about this question is that it is the one that I am asked most, if not directly, then neighbors, friends, and family ask it of my host family in my presence. So age and your marital status are the first questions asked.

So let me introduce you to my far-flung fellow older volunteers in Armenia:

(Judy, Barbara C, Ann, Lora, Barbara H, Olga) (Next: Marilyn & Rebecca)













Olga (65) is from New Jersey. She came to the States from Romania in 1980. When applying to the Peace Corps she had decided that she wanted to serve in a post-Soviet country to see how those countries had changed. The Peace Corps offered her a spot in the Philippines where she served for three years on an island landed on by MacArthur at the end of WWII. In the Philippines she worked in water and sanitation. Before she left the Philippines she inquired again about serving in a post-Soviet country and after a very short trip home, she found herself in Armenia. Here she works in a small town (20,000) in the NE in environmental education. Olga has two girls (29 and 31) who think she’s “weird” and don’t question her because they know she won’t do anything they expect. She spent 32 years working and raising the kids and is now enjoying the freedom to travel, experience new cultures, and enjoy the apricots in Armenia. Olga has a wickedly droll sense of humor and makes a good verbal sparring partner.

Lora (63) is from a tiny little town in Colorado and has two daughters (44 and 40). After leaving the corporate world where she worked in IT, she was in business for herself for twenty years: running a craft business, and doing bookkeeping and taxes. When she was a child she visited an old family friend who had a wall covered with National Geographic posters, which started her thinking about traveling and seeing different cultures. Lora lives in a small town (10,000) near a large lake, and is working at the local YMCA and at a small (400 students) state college. She finds the history of Armenia fascinating and likes the people and their attachment to their Christian heritage. Lora loves to walk and hike and has met many backcountry sheepherders.

Rebecca (65) is from Florida and spent 35 years nursing in an intensive care unit. She has two boys (29 and 31). Over the years she went on several medical missions, including two trips to Haiti and four to Honduras. She currently lives in a small NE town (8,000), and works with a non-profit helping disabled children, and, doing what she really likes, making the rounds with a doctor in the surrounding villages two days a week. She is hoping to start a medical lab in one of the villages. Rebecca finds the Armenian people “wonderful.”

Barbara C (61) is from Florida and really dislikes the cold. She is the envy of all other PC volunteers though because she has an ELECTRIC BLANKET! She has a daughter (41). Barbara taught reading, math, and industrial arts (among other things) for 33 years. She “retired” to the Peace Corps. She now teaches at two different schools, has two Girl Scout troops, four student English clubs, and three adult English clubs. She says that she is “overly busy.” The Peace Corps has been something that she always wanted to do, since 17 or 18. She feels as if her life prepared her for this; she’s been a long-time Girl Scout leader and volunteer, and her role-model 84 year-old mother volunteers at a local hospital two days a week. The Peace Corps feeds her love of travel. She loves the friendliness of the Armenians who “would give you the shirt off their backs.” Barbara thinks that being in the Peace Corps is like camping out for two years. She has struggled with the language and laughed as she recalled that she taught swimming in New York one cold summer and never got in the water. So she has not conquered the Armenian language but feels she has been effective in her community.

Marilyn (59) was raised in New York by immigrant Germans, and so she taught German for years in the schools. She has a 28-year-old daughter. She was involved in teacher training across the US, then worked as a professional fundraiser, and realized that she missed the classroom. She now works in central Armenia in a town of about 25,000. She is a secondary English and foreign language teacher and a teacher trainer. She works with the National Institute of Education and with 16 schools. She likes the fact that she feels appreciated for the work that she does, and loves the relationship she has with an outstanding teacher she works with. Marilyn has struggled with the language and tells me that she suffers from neural atrophy of her brain pathways, a factor of age. (We’d all agree!) But Marilyn also thinks that as older experienced volunteers, we bring important skills to a country with an educated population.

Sue (61) is from North Carolina and is the mother of seven children. She has a PHD in Theology and when she retired from ministry, she needed something to fill her time. She feels that she has been very fortunate in life and felt it was time to give back. She saw an article mentioning that the Peace Corps was looking for older volunteers which spoke to her sense of adventure, and she decided she could see herself doing it. She liked the structured support offered; training and medical. She had always been very accessible to her children, so this has been an adjustment for all of them. But she e-mails regularly with her twelve-year-old granddaughter and has listened to the wails of her four-year-old granddaughter who misses her. Her oldest son has just been transferred to Dubai, so she will have the closest relative. She lives in a very small village (800 people) in the far south and heats her small house with a wood-burning stove. She works in a school that has 43 students and thirteen teachers, and really likes the fact that she knows everyone and that it is easy to interact. Sue really admires the women here who work so hard and with such fortitude, accepting what they have. She finds them warm, hospitable, and with a strong sense of who they are as a people. Sue radiates energy and warmth herself.

Barbara H (61) is from Washington State. She is a CPA, has an MBA, and worked as a corporate CFO, mostly for manufacturing companies, after an early career as a VISTA volunteer in West Virginia, a blackjack dealer at Lake Tahoe, and an auditor in NYC. She has two daughters (24 and 21.) She decided to take the Peace Corps plunge after nursing a desire since President Kennedy, and after listening to a presentation at the University of Washington for “over 50” potential volunteers attended by 400 oldsters. And her large Irish family made it possible to leave the girls in good care! She had volunteered for many years including building homes in Mexico and Africa, cooking for the hungry, facilitating JustFaith, PTA, etc. She thought she could handle anything, but is finding it harder than she thought to adjust to bucket baths in a 48 degree bathroom for a potential two years! Barbara works as a business volunteer in Gyumri, the second largest Armenian city (150,000). Her primary assignment is at an NGO that works to develop businesses in the Gyumri area. The feeling of over-whelming depression in the Gyumri area where unemployment is 70% is a primary concern. She is amazed at how well the Armenians have handled very difficult conditions, with incredible resiliency. Yesterday was 21 years since the earthquake of 1988 that claimed 25,000 lives, and destroyed housing, schools, hospitals, gas lines, electricity lines, and water pipes. And the evidence is still everywhere.

Judy (70) is from Washington State. She has two daughters and worked in the mental health profession for many years. She lived in Germany for four years and has traveled extensively. She joined the Peace Corps because it was “more interesting than sitting home retired.” From 1998 to 2001 she served in the Peace Corps in Ukraine, became fluent in Russian, and promised herself that she would do the cultural immersion experience again. Judy currently works in and outside of Gyumri, and lives in a village outside the city. She teaches English composition and critical thinking through writing at a state university, and assists in the village with English classes by providing games and activities for students to use their English. Judy loves the warm and generous hospitality of the Armenian people and their silly humor. Judy has an advantage most of us don’t with her Russian language which most Gyumri residents are fluent in. She is always up for a trip (currently Turkey or Egypt?), a symphony or the ballet, and buys Armenian music for her pleasure.